Contents
Journey through the Balkans.
Introduction
For two weeks, I explored the Balkans, specifically three former Yugoslavian countries, Croatia (Only Zagreb), Serbia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. Since it was summertime, I deliberately avoided the crowded Croatian coast and I explored less touristy areas of the Balkans. I mainly travelled by bus as I found that bus transport is quite affordable and reliable with good connections between cities. This post will be part of a more extensive series: Journey through the Balkans.
Stage 1: Visiting the City of Zagreb
My journey started in Zagreb and the reason was that I found a very cheap Ryanair flight ticket for just 22 EUR. Zagreb is an easily accessible hub from various European capitals, yet often overlooked in favour of Croatia’s coastal cities. However, it’s worth a couple of days on your travel itinerary, don’t underestimate this city.
Getting Around Zagreb
Once you land in Zagreb airport you have two options to take the regular bus for 2 EURs or take the Shuttle bus for 8 EUR. I chose to take the regular bus, which requires a short walk from the airport terminal to the bus stop across the main road. From there, you’ll arrive in Zagreb, but not in the historical centre.You would need to walk or take the tram depending where you have your accommodation. Tram tickets are available at the kiosk next to the tram stops and in 2023, the cost of ticket was 0.53 EUR. In Zagreb you can easily walk to the main historical sites in the city centre. If you need to go further you can easily travel by tram and bus.
Croatia Currency Information
Please also note that Croatia as part of the European Union started to use Euros in 2023 replacing the previous Croatian kuna. Additionally, payments with Credit cards are widely accepted too.
Exploring the Heart of Zagreb
Ban Jelačić Square: A Vibrant Starting Point
I started exploring the city of Zagreb, joining a free walking tour to know the main area as soon as possible and later to explore the city on my own. The first place that you will walk into is the Ban Jelačić Square, the central square where you will find a large statue of Ban Josip Jelačić on a horse, the Croatian national hero. This square is also the main hub for trams.
Discover the Dolac Market
From here, you can visit the Dolac Market, a traditional farmer’s market, distinguished by its vibrant red umbrellas. Here you can find one of my favourite places for eating cevapi. But I will comment about this later.
The Zagreb Cathedral
From the Ban Jelačić Square or Dolac market you can walk to the Zagreb Cathedral. Unfortunately it’s not accessible inside due to ongoing repairs from the March 2020 earthquake, in which the tip of its southern spire broke off and crashed onto the roof of the adjacent Archbishop’s Palace. Besides, a significant portion of the cathedral is hidden under scaffolding. As a side note, the cathedral was already severely damaged in the past by the 1880 earthquake and was restored in the Neo-Gothic style.
Earthquake Scars in Zagreb
The 2020 earthquake left its mark on several churches and structures across Zagreb. And today the scars in the buildings are still visible. Many of the repairing works are still ongoing and many churches remain closed due to repairing works. Most of the damaged buildings were built in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Historical Gems of Zagreb
The Stone Gate: A Place of Devotion
My next stop was the Stone Gate, once the eastern entrance to the mediaeval town and the gateway to the Upper Town. It houses a shrine inside and holds historical significance. In 1731, a fire destroyed the wooden gate, leaving only a painting of the Virgin Mary intact. Today, people come here to pray and light candles. You’ll also find stones engraved with messages to the Virgin.
St. Mark’s Church: A Timeless Wonder
A few steps away, you’ll encounter St. Mark’s Church, one of Zagreb’s oldest buildings, dating back to the 13th century. Unfortunately, it was also closed during my visit but don’t miss the unique roof tiles featuring the Zagreb coat of arms. Next to the church you can spot the Croatian parliament and, across from it, the Office of the Prime Minister of Croatia.
Lotrščak Tower and Midday Tradition
For one of the best panoramic views of the city, head to Lotrščak Tower. Visit during sunset for a magical experience or admire the city from the Strossmayer Promenade alongside the tower. If you’re around at noon, you’ll witness a daily cannon shot—a tradition dating back to the 19th century, signalling midday for the city’s churches to ring their bells.
The World’s Shortest and Oldest Funicular
Return to the lower town via the world’s shortest and oldest funicular! With only 66 metres long, the ride takes about 1 minute and it has been recognized as one of the most beautiful in Europe.
Hidden Wonders of Zagreb
Gric Tunnel: A Living History
Built during WWII as a bomb shelter, the Gric Tunnel connects the western and eastern parts of the old town. After the war, it lay dormant until the 1990s when it hosted one of Croatia’s first raves. Later, it served as a shelter during the Croatian War of Independence. Today, it’s a passageway and a free attraction for curious tourists.
Viennese Vibes in Zagreb
The lower town of Zagreb showcases architecture reminiscent of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it reminds me of Vienna architecture. An excellent example is the Croatian National Theatre, inaugurated by Emperor Franz Joseph I at the end of the 19th century. Don’t miss the Oktogon, an urban passageway that once housed the first Croatian Bank, also from the 19th century. Explore the numerous parks in the lower part of the city and the enchanting botanical garden.
Exploring beyond the city centre: Mirogoj cemetery.
If you want to explore beyond the city centre, don’t miss the Mirogoj Cemetery. Interestingly, this cemetery was owned by the city and not the church, allowing people from various religions (Catholic, Orthodox, Muslim, Jewish, Protestant, etc.) to be buried here. It’s a place of historical and cultural significance that offers a peaceful retreat from the bustling city.
Cultural and Culinary Experiences
Museums Worth a Visit
The most famous museum in the city is the Museum of Broken Relationships, and it is a unique place to visit. The museum collects objects from people all over the world that tell the story of their broken relationships. And it was one of the most unique museums in the world. You can also visit the Museum of Contemporary Art or learn more about the 90’s Yugoslav war in The Memorial Centre of the Rocket Attacks on Zagreb 1991-1995
Tasting Croatian Delights
During my short stay in Zagreb, I tried Cevapi at “Plac Kitchen & Grill” near Dolac market – delicious and budget-friendly. As a second option, I will recommend “La Štruk” where you can try štrukli, a traditional Croatian dish made from sweet or savoury dough with a cottage cheese filling. If you’re into exploring different cafes and restaurants, don’t miss Skalinska Street and Tkalčićeva Street.
Final Thoughts about Zagreb
Zagreb, with its unique blend of history and culture is a hidden gem in Croatia. Zagreb has something to offer every traveller. So, why not make a detour from the coast and discover the heart of this city?
This was my first stop of my journey through part of the Balkans. From here, I travelled by bus to Belgrade in Serbia. I paid 20 Euros for the ticket and It takes only five and a half hours, crossing the land border between Croatia and Serbia. For connecting between cities in the Balkans check flixbus or getbybus companies.
Next stop: Belgrade. Serbia.
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