Contents
Stage 2: Journey through the Balkans.
Introduction
Welcome to the second stage of my Balkan adventure! After leaving the city of Zagreb in Croatia, I took a Flixbus for just 20 EURs and embarked on a five-and-a-half-hour journey to the vibrant Serbian capital, Belgrade, crossing the border between Croatia and Serbia. Once you arrive in Belgrade, you’ll immediately notice how distinct this city is in comparison to Zagreb. As soon as I arrived at the Belgrade bus station, some of my past fellow travellers were waiting for me and they suggested we head to Skadarlija street, known as the bohemian quarter, for a delightful dinner in one of the many restaurants that you will find in this street.
A breakfast delight in Belgrade
The next morning, I started visiting Belgrade, but first, what better way to start the day than with a traditional Serbian breakfast? Burek is the go-to morning delight here. You can’t go wrong with a visit to “Pekara Trpković – Slavija”, a renowned bakery, or any of the cosy cafes around the city. Burek is a baked pastry, typically filled with cheese or minced meat, and I can assure that you will not be disappointed.
Exploring Belgrade’s Treasures
The Church of Saint Sava
So after Breakfast, we are ready to start visiting the city of Belgrade. My first stop was The Church of Saint Sava, a Serbian Orthodox church and the largest church in the Balkans. The temple has 49 bells and while the exterior is impressive, the real treasure, in my opinion, is inside. The interior is adorned with intricate gold-coloured mosaics, making the church a masterpiece. The best part? Admission is free for visitors.
NATO-bombed Ministry of Defence
From Here, you can walk to the Nikola Tesla Museum, although I must admit, I didn’t visit it myself. Nikola Tesla museums can be found in nearly every capital city in the Balkans.
Instead, I chose to explore the NATO-bombed Ministry of Defence of Yugoslavia, which suffered severe damage during the 1999 NATO bombing in the Kosovo war. This building serves as a reminder of the suffering endured during the NATO bombing and symbolises Serbia’s resilience. Left unrepaired, now the building is protected, it signifies the lasting scars of war and holds a significant place in Yugoslavian/Serbia history as one of its most famous ruins. I totally recommend visiting this site to gain a deeper understanding of the Yugoslavian wars in the ’90s. During this Journey through the Balkans, I had the opportunity to learn about the recent history of the region from different sources and varying perspectives in each visited country.
Exploring the Heart of Belgrade
Before heading to the city centre, consider exploring Tasmajdan Park and St. Mark Orthodox Church. Then, take a walk to Republic Square, where you will find the National Museum, the National Theatre, and the statue of Prince Mihailo. This statue was the first public monument to feature an equestrian figure of a ruler in Serbia. Prince Mihailo played a key role in supporting a Balkan federation against the Ottoman Empire, creating the First Balkan Alliance. After visiting this square, just walk through Kneza Mihaila Street, the main pedestrian and shopping zone in Belgrade.
Belgrade’s Multicultural Heritage
Belgrade’s history has been marked by Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian occupations and leaving its imprint on the city. One notable monument that still stands today, worth mentioning, is the Bajrakli Mosque, the last remaining mosque from the Ottoman era. During the Austrian occupation (between 1717 and 1739), the mosque briefly served as a Roman Catholic church but was later returned to its original function under Ottoman rule. From the Hungarian side we will visit the area of Zemu and its impressive Gardos Tower, but I will elaborate more about this place below.
Kalemegdan Fortress: A Historic Icon
Our final stop during the day was the Belgrade Fortress in Kalemegdan Park. With free admission, the fortress offers panoramic views of the Danube and Sava rivers. This site was a settlement for Romans, Byzantines Slavic tribes, Ottomans, and more. This fortress is a symbol of the city of Belgrade and its resilience through history. The area surrounding the fortress is Kalemegdan park with nice gardens and various sculptures. Inside the fortress you can find several museums: including a military museum and a Roman well. Belgrade is locally referred to as “beograd,” meaning the “white city” or “white fortress” (“beo” means white, and “grad” means city). It is said that the city fortress was built using white stone and that is the reason for this name.
Sunset at Tower Gardos in Zemun
One nice spot for sunset is the Tower Gardos in Zemun. The Zemun area is located on the right bank of the Danube and it offers a unique charm distinct from the city centre. You can walk along the Danube riverbank, admire small houses, and visit its historical tower. Tower Gardos was built in 1896 to celebrate a thousand years of Hungarian settlement and provides stunning views, especially during sunset. It’s somewhat confusingly known as the Millennium Tower.
The Zemun area quickly became one of my favourite spots in the city of Belgrade. One of the highlights here is Zemun’s culinary scene. This area has many restaurants, cafes, and bars along the Danube riverbank, making it one of the best places to try river-fish dishes.
Dining and Nightlife in Belgrade
If you want to explore alternative areas for lunch, dinner or night life you can go to the area of Beton Hala, situated on the banks of the Sava River. This spot is perfect for a coffee with friends, a nice brunch or dinner or spend your night socialising in several popular clubs. Alternatively, you can opt for the bohemian quarter of Skadarlija Street, which I personally prefer, as mentioned at the beginning of this post.
Yugoslavian Museum: A Historical Gem
On my last day in Belgrade, I visited one hidden gem for history enthusiasts -the Yugoslavian Museum. Here, I learned about the former Yugoslavian countries and its history during the 20th-century. The highlight of the museum is the resting place of Marshal Tito, who led Yugoslavia from the end of WWII until his death in 1980.
As you explore the area surrounding Tito’s grave, you’ll discover a wealth of details about this remarkable leader and how he managed to maintain a unified country. Despite exercising power through a dictatorship, he remained in control until his death, and his funeral is considered one of the grandest state funerals in history. Representatives from 127 different countries and 700,000 civilians attended the event. Tito’s ability to navigate the complexities of the Cold War era and keep Yugoslavia unaligned with the superpowers (US and Soviet Union) contributed to its status as one of Europe’s wealthiest nations for a time. Keep also in mind that while Tito’s regime was Communist, it distinctly differed from Soviet Union communism.
Once you’ve explored Tito’s resting place, you can visit other rooms of the museum where you will see the objects and daily life of Yugoslavian people during that period. In my opinion, this museum is a must-visit.
Final Thoughts:
Belgrade is a city that deserves a stay of at least 3 days to fully appreciate its cultural richness and historical significance. Take your time, so you can enjoy its hidden cafes and restaurants. In my next post we will visit the second largest city of the country, Novi Sad, and further explore Serbia.
Next: Serbia and Novi Sad
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